이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 사용하여 Apple Watch Series 6의 닳았거나 죽은 배터리 교체하세요.
이 안내서는 셀룰러/LTE 버전 시계에 대한 절차를 보여 주지만 GPS-용 버전 절차와도 비슷합니다.
참고: 40mm Series 6 Apple Watch의 배터리 교체 절차는 44mm 버전과 약간 다릅니다. 이 안내서는 두 가지 크기의 배터리를 교체하는 방법을 보여줍니다.
시작하기 전에 시계에 적합한 교체 배터리가 있는지 확인하세요.
배터리가 부풀어 올랐다면, 적절한 예방 조치를 취하세요. 안전을 위해서, 이 시계를 분리하기 전에 25% 이하로 방전하세요. 이는 배터리를 수리하는 도중 실수로 손상할 때 일어날 수 있는 열 화재 위험을 줄일 수 있습니다.
기기를 재조립할 때 부품들을 다시 부착하려면 교체용 접착제가 필요합니다.
필요한 것
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Safety Glasses€4.95
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스크린과 시계 본체 사이의 간격이 아주 얇기 때문에 둘을 분리하려면 날카로운 칼날이 필요합니다. 계속진행하기 전에 다음 경고를 주의 깊게 읽으세요.
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iOpener를 준비해서 (또는 헤어 드라이어 또는 히트 건을 사용하여) 시계 표면을 가열하여 디스플레이 접착제를 느슨하게 하세요.
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iOpener를 시계에 2분 이상 올려놓고 스크린에 완전히 열을 가하여 스크린을 케이스에 부착하는 접착제를 부드럽게 하세요.
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칼날의 굽은 면 가장자리를 디스플레이와 외부 케이스 사이의 얇은 틈으로 넣으세요. 디스플레이의 짧은 면, 디지털 크라운에서 가장 먼 곳에서 시작하세요.
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틈 사이로 단단히 똑바로 눌러 넣으세요.
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들어간 칼날을 기울여 디스플레이를 비틀어 약간 여세요.
I was unable to do this. and I ended up breaking the glass in the process. So this was not a great experience
With a titanium case there is no give to get the blade within the gap. This step probably works fine with an aluminum case as it has more give. Even purchased new knives to make it work but only ended up scratching the case. Will now need to take to Apple Store and live with scratches...
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디스플레이를 들어 올려 조심히 시계 크라운을 향해 당기세요.
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디스플레이를 위로 젖혀 여세요.
When I opened my watch I saw two layers of adhesive or are they gaskets? I broke one accidentally but not sure if I should keep the undamaged one in there? Or should both side be totally bare and the adhesive itself is also the seal?
Also I think I damaged my battery when prying it up since it won’t hold a charge now. I bought a replacement battery and will try that but is there anything else it could be?
Be very careful here... My display cable broke before achieving the angle they show in the last pick above. You may well want to order new cables along with the battery and gaskets. The are only $19.95
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iOpener를 준비하고 (또는 헤어 드라이어 또는 열선총) 시계 후면을 가열하여 배터리를 느슨하게 하세요. iOpener를 시계에 2분 이상 그대로 놓아 두세요.
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Yeah, bad links in step 11
I have edited the links to stay on the correct guide so they should work right once the edit is approved by the admins.
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배터리와 Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진 사이에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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일정한 압력을 사용하여 배터리를 천천히 들어 올려서 메인 보드에 고정하는 접착제를 분리하세요.
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배터리와 Taptic Engine/탭틱 엔진 사이에 여는 픽을 끼우세요.
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일정한 압력을 사용하여 배터리를 천천히 들어 올려서 메인 보드에 고정하는 접착제를 분리하세요.
My watch has a metal shield in between the battery and screen?
Hi Eric,
I assume you own the 40mm version of the Apple Watch series 6 which has a slightly different build. The one you see here is the 44mm version.
Is removing the battery really necessary if you are only replacing the display? I can't see in the following steps where the battery would get in the way of detaching the old screen.
I’ve already taken off the screen , had a bad scratch I couldn’t get out then totally messed it up so for $50 bucks and some increased knowledge of Apple Watches I have the 6 44mm and the whole screen is off took 2days, I’m a little afraid I may have taken off the lcd part as well and I just bought a digitizer and new battery i didn’t get anything called an lcd they were more expensive but I’ve looked for hours and I didn’t tear anything, any thoughts?
Hi Jeremy,
Unfortunately what the sites that sell just the digitizer (AKA the front glass) aren't telling you is that it's extremely difficult to separate the LCD and the digitizer, as they're bonded together with glue called OCA (Optically Clear Adhesive). It takes specialized skills and equipment to successfully separate them without damaging the delicate LCD, then even more equipment to rebond the display with a new digitizer. I consider myself a very experienced DIY guy and this isn't something I'd try on an Apple Watch. I have done one on a couple of iPhone 6's that turned out with barely acceptable results, and one on a Samsung phone that failed miserably.
Sorry to say, you'll need to bite the bullet and just buy a new screen assembly, one that includes both the LCD and the digitizer. Presumably you haven't done anything with the replacement part you already bought, so hopefully you can return it.
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Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 배터리 커넥터를 들어 올려 분리하세요.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:Tesa 61395 Tape€5.95
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배터리 분리하기.
I did not really see any adhesive strip to remove, neither on the battery, nor in the housing. So installed the new one without any adhesive. Though the backside of the new battery had a plastic foil to remove, guessing that‘s the way to make the battery stick.
To seal the display to the housing again I used B-7000 glue.
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가능하면 새 접착제를 설치하고 재실링하기 전에 기기를 켜고 수리를 테스트하세요.
새 배터리를 미리-자른 접착제 또는 양면 접착 테이프로 새 배터리를 고정하세요. 제대로 배치하려면 새 접착제를, 배터리가 아닌, 기존 접착제가 있던 곳에 바르세요. 새 배터리를 제자리에 단단히 누릅니다.
Apple Watch Series 6를 재조립하려면 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요. 새 접착제를 바르기 전에 고농도 (>90%) 이소프로필 알코올을 Q-tip 또는 클리닝 패드에 사용하여 시계 케이스 가장자리와 스크린에 남아있는 접착제를 조심히 제거하세요.
최적의 성능을 위해, 이 안내서 단계를 마치고, 새로 설치한 배터리를 보정하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 기본 문제 해결을 사용하거나 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에 도움을 청하세요.
가능하면 새 접착제를 설치하고 재실링하기 전에 기기를 켜고 수리를 테스트하세요.
새 배터리를 미리-자른 접착제 또는 양면 접착 테이프로 새 배터리를 고정하세요. 제대로 배치하려면 새 접착제를, 배터리가 아닌, 기존 접착제가 있던 곳에 바르세요. 새 배터리를 제자리에 단단히 누릅니다.
Apple Watch Series 6를 재조립하려면 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요. 새 접착제를 바르기 전에 고농도 (>90%) 이소프로필 알코올을 Q-tip 또는 클리닝 패드에 사용하여 시계 케이스 가장자리와 스크린에 남아있는 접착제를 조심히 제거하세요.
최적의 성능을 위해, 이 안내서 단계를 마치고, 새로 설치한 배터리를 보정하세요.
전자 폐기물을 R2 또는 e-Stewards 인증 재활용 센터로 가져가세요.
수리가 계획대로 진행되지 않았습니까? 기본 문제 해결을 사용하거나 자사의
답변 커뮤니티에 도움을 청하세요.
다른 25명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
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이 번역인들은 저희가 세상을 수리하는 데 도움을 주고 있어요! 기여하시겠습니까?
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16가이드 댓글
Where do I purchase a replacement battery?
Salma Khan - 답글
You can Google this. There are several sites offering batteries.
agrior -
Does the watch is still water resistant after replacing the battery ?
Not really, but I glue with certain types of glue and cure it for 1 hour and it seems to hold well. but I still wouldn't recommend going into pool.
You buy a new adhesive cut out. Ebay.
If you use b-7000 glue, yes.
Just completed the battery replacement for a series 6 40mm watch. The repair went smoothly, but now that it's all back together there are two bright blue vertical lines through the display. Any idea what I damaged? I'm assuming I damaged a cable or something and there is no fix, but I would like to know what I damaged so that I can be more careful next time.
It sounds like you damaged OLED. You will need new display for it but also want to make sure you transfer NFC chip in order to save Apple Pay function. but then, maybe it's time to upgrade.
Opening the case was difficult. Removing the battery was easy, but despite careful handling, the outer battery case became somewhat warped. I installed the new battery, and initially only the apple logo flashed... then after 20 minutes charging, the new battery showed 75 percent charged. I turned the unit off and completed the installation, sealing the case. Once finished, the watch only flashes the logo. The watch worked normally with the original battery, so suspect that the new battery is defective. Any similar experiences?
The guide doesn’t show how to install a new battery. Am I missing something?
Amrit Wafa - 답글
Read the Conclusion section at the end; it gives you all the information you need in order to reassemble your watch with the new battery.
Seems to be very good instructions, but I had one issue that is now holding me up while I order adhesive for the case.
Please update your "what you need" list to discuss adhesive for the watch face/case not just the battery, I ordered what I thought was everything I needed but didn't include adhesive for the case reassembly because it was a "conclusion" section and it really isn't well discussed.
There also seems to be questions about it being water resistant after re-assembly which I would assume is related to the type of adhesive you need to use.
I'll need to figure out what I need for adhesive and pay shipping again because I will not be enough for free shipping from iFixit.
And maybe talk more about the iOpener and if it can be overused and cause heat damage to the watch beyond loosening the adhesives.
Is there good coverage of working with these adhesives in general ? Like what temperature they need to reach to soften enough for removal, what solvents are best and what happens if you just try to reuse them.
I used the Tesa 61395 1mm double-sided tape from iFixit. It's a bit of a struggle to lay down on the inside, by the edge. One must not forget to remove the old tape, of course.
A pre-cut piece would be best, if it even exists. Armed with a bit of patience and a steady hand, 4 pieces can be placed relatively easy. I found it easier to cut the tape around the corners to avoid bending it around the curve. The hardest part was on the side of the ring button because you have to work behind the cable. Got some pics, if anyone's interested.
I wouldn't call it waterproof, though.
As for the heating of the existing adhesive, I simply used a hair dryer and did 4-5 runs until the watch was warm-towards-hot to the touch.
Good luck!
Dan -
If you change the battery of the 44 mm Model, make sure you got the Y000 bit for the tiny screw. I have a pretty comprehensive bit set from iFixit, but that one was not included.
AD161 - 답글